A personal essay on sharing a birthday with Mexican Independence Day — seventeen years of mariachis, proposals, a 40th birthday with a jazz band, and learning what it means to participate in someone else’s national holiday.
A local’s guide to breakfast in Condesa and the neighborhoods around it — Ciena, Farmacia Internacional, Lardo, Café Toscano, Niddo, Café Nin, Eno, and Chocolat Pimienta for GF bread. The places in our actual weekend rotation.
A local’s guide to where to stay in Colonia Cuauhtémoc — the St. Regis, Four Seasons, Ritz-Carlton, Marquis, Casa Lerma, RYO KAN, and Casa Pánuco. Mexico City’s most central neighborhood, and why it deserves to be on your shortlist.
A local’s Saturday in Colonia Cuauhtémoc — the most central neighborhood in Mexico City that most visitors skip entirely. Where to have breakfast, walk in Chapultepec, eat lunch, get churros, and have an evening drink, from someone who has lived here for years.
A practical guide to Independence Day in Mexico City — the Grito de Independencia at 11pm, how to watch from the Hotel Ciudad de México or a gala dinner at Hacienda de los Morales or San Ángel Inn, the real pricing details, traffic warnings, and what actually happens on the 16th.
Chiles en Nogada — what it is, why it is tied to Mexican Independence Day, when to find it (July to mid-September only), and where to order it in Mexico City: Arango, La Casa de las Sirenas, Limosneros, San Ángel Inn, Hacienda de los Morales, El Cardenal.
A specific packing list for Mexico City from someone who has lived here for 17 years — what to pack for a weekend, a week, or two weeks, with seasonal notes, bag recommendations, and what to leave at home.
A personal guide to the best Mexico City guidebooks — the Monocle travel guide, Art and Fiesta by Cristina Alonso, the Petit Atlas Hédoniste, and the locally published books you’ll only find once you’re there. What’s on my shelf after 17 years in the city.
A local’s guide to the best coffee chains in Mexico City — Tierra Garat, Cielito Querido, Sede Café, and Chiquitito. All better than Starbucks. Where to stop when you need a break from walking.
A personal guide to the Spanish restaurants in Mexico City worth knowing — El Centro Castellano in the Centro Histórico, El Chanclas in Polanco, Bulla, La Cocina del Bizco, and La Barra de Fran. The ones we frequent.